Temporarily alone. From Mérida to Tarifa #4

*Days 12 to 21. From 14/02 to 23/02.

It’s funny how fast things change. What starts with a simple “Wow, I feel this finger is weak”, transforms in a couple of days in a “Shit, I gotta go to Paris to check it out”.

I (Javi) totally understood Gaspard having to leave. I mean, in case the tendon was damaged, the consequences of the injury could be chronical if not treated soon. It was a no-brainer. But, wow, I was quite shocked to suddenly have to change my mindset from being 24/7 with the same person to be (relatively) completely alone. In matter of hours, Gaspard took his bike to Sevilla and flew from there to Sevilla. I was 180 km far from Sevilla.

To make things even better, I arrived to Calzadilla de los Barros, already one of the last villages in Extremadura, went to the local “Pilgrim” hut and, voilá, “CERRADO / CLOSED”. I asked a local who directly called the Mayor of the town (I felt really important, hehe). The very kind Mayor managed to get a deal in a motel for me, for 10 bugs I got a private room. Can’t complain in the end.

Next day (day 13) I made it to Monesterio, the very last village in Extremadura. It was preceded by 600 m elevation, which made it the one with the highest acumulated elevation so far. I got in Andalucia through the north of the province of Sevilla, which is quite hilly and green at this time of the year.

However, one sad thing in Andalucia is that (almost) all natural land is privately owned! Well fenced, it’s not easy to get into it to explore it and let alone camp there. Moreover, locals say that it belongs to just a bunch of rich landowners. Had to enjoy the view from the road.

On my way to my first sleeping stop in Sevilla province, Almadén de la Plata, I got romantic and decided to take the original “Camino de la Plata” way. 30 minutes after, I found myself pushing the bike up through a rocky slope that was impossible to ascend with the bike. Some dogs from a nearby farm started barking like crazy. Cold shower of reality. Maybe let’s leave romanticism for another day.

The hut of Almadén de la Plata (still day 13) was full of japanese Spanish students. When I said the few words I know in Japanese (how are you, friend, cheers!) they started clapping. Felt important again.

Finally, day 14. An easy downhill ride took me to Sevilla. Warm weather. No wind. Arrived to Triana bridge. 960 km since I left home. Let’s take a picture.

Since it was unclear whether Gaspard would return or not, I took days 15 and 16 as rest days. I met Charles, one of the workers of “Triana backpackers” hostel, and joined him and his friends to go out in Sevilla. Really cool people! We were really in the same mood. The little loneliness I was carrying disappeared immediately. I was delighted to see that their night destination was a techno club in Sevilla (one of the few I guess?). So happy could party with nice people in the middle of such a trip! I wished Gaspardo Calamardo would be there too.

The 2nd rest day I did a free tour in Sevilla, and went to a local “flamenco-rumba” bar full of locals celebrating the birthday of someone like crazy. They gave me cake. So good.

Day 17.

The fact that Gaspard had to leave makes me look at the small contracture on my shoulder with a big degree of paranoia. I go to the decathlon and get the best gloves in the shop and new comfortable handles. Lookin’ nice. I take the road on the East side of the Guadiana river. It is in front of Doñana National Park, full of birds, including flamingos. After 3 days of hostel (14€/night), it’s time to balance the budget and camp. I go ask some guys fishing and end exchanging experiences and drinking (their) beer with them. Dani, Isma and Modesto, from a nearby town. They recommend me to camp in a forest in the zone. And I find myself in the sleeping bag at 8pm, looking at the stars, hearing the wind and in the deepest loneliness. I can’t remember if it’s the first time that I camp alone in nature. It. could be. It’s a weird feeling in the beginning, but I adapt quickly ;-).

Day 18.

With the first rays of light I start the journey and have breakfast in a local bar of San Lúcar de Barrameda, surrounded by fishermen and ex-military. Instead of drinking coffee like me, they are drinking anis. 40% alcohol. It’s 9 AM.

I soon discover that the “vuelta de Andalucía ” is passing through the town. I think of joking whether I can join but everyone looks very serious, so I pass and set direction to Cádiz. I get a super nasty wind that makes my ride miserable. But I pass through the town of “El Puerto de Santamaría”, which is super nice, and the day starts getting better. I arrive to Hostal Casa Caracol in Cádiz. The guys working there are super nice. Plus there is a certified massagist that gives me a massage for my contracture for 10 bugs. I go clean my clothes and enjoy a crazy sunset. One of the first in the coast of Cádiz.

Day 19.

I did a small tour by myself around Cádiz in the morning. Cádiz was where the first Spanish Constitution was proclaimed in 1812, and also from where the ships to America left in 1492, so I thought it would pay off. And it did. If you go, make sure to go to “Torre Távira” and check its dark chamber.

After eating some fresh fish in the local Market, I decided to head towards Conil de la Frontera. And I got hit again by a super strong wind against my face. Cádiz is some sort of island that is connected with bridges to the mainland. The sideway was ridiculous in the highway. I must admit that it was quite tense. The rest of the way to Conil was not much better. But when I arrived to the cliffs where I was planning to camp, all the frustration because of the wind disappeared. What a view, caralho! The camping was unreally beautiful.

Day 20:

With a little less wind, I followed the Cádiz coastline and passed to many nice villages: El Palmar, Caños de Meca, and Zahara. I camped in a cliff between Zahara and Bolonia. Again, a crazy sunset in the middle of the ocean. Then the stars covering the sky. You distinguish so many of them. I feel like I could do that everyday of mylife.

Day 21.

I visited the Roman Ruins of Baelo Claudia in the village of Bolonia, famous for its sand dunes.

And then, wow! Tailwind! Can’t believe it! I put direction Tarifa (the southernmost point in Spain) and in a couple of hours I was there. I stayed in a hostel called “Melting Pot”. The surfing vibe was huge there, and people were all really young and party+surf oriented. Everyone super friendly, and even better, almost everyone could play the guitar! I even sang a couple of songs of Joaquín Sabina and Marea with an Argentinian called Maxi playing. Epic moments. And, guess what? Great sunset again, of course!